New York Fashion Week has officially entered full fashion-fantasy mode. From dramatic femininity and relaxed tailoring to nostalgic American style, statement colour and front rows packed with global stars, the Spring/Summer 2027 season is already delivering moments destined to influence what we wear next.
One important note: NYFW is still happening. The official Spring/Summer 2027 calendar runs from September 10–15, 2026, so this is the story so far as of September 12. The schedule contains around 70 runway shows and presentations, alongside dozens of appointments, digital shows and off-calendar events.
And if the opening days are telling us anything, it is this: quiet fashion is getting louder.
The biggest message from New York: fashion wants personality again
For several seasons, wardrobes have been dominated by restrained neutrals, understated luxury and ultra-polished minimalism. New York is not completely abandoning sophistication, but designers are loosening it up.
Colour is returning. Prints are colliding. Romantic dressing is getting richer. Tailoring is becoming softer, rumpled and more believable. Scarves are being styled with abandon. Accessories are becoming conversation pieces.
Even Vogue's early Spring/Summer 2027 trend forecast points toward a move away from the ultra-controlled "clean girl" aesthetic, with expressive styling, romantic transparency, draping, orange, peplums and deliberately imperfect combinations gaining attention.
In other words, looking immaculate is no longer enough. Looking interesting may be the bigger flex.
Ralph Lauren opened the season with American romance
Ralph Lauren started the week before the official CFDA calendar with an intimate show in Tribeca, revisiting the codes that have made the house synonymous with American luxury.
But this wasn't simply another parade of heritage classics.
For Spring/Summer 2027, familiar Ralph Lauren signatures were softened and given a more romantic, occasionally irreverent feeling. The collection opened in head-to-toe white, while the overall proposition mixed polished American sportswear with a sense of rugged elegance and ease.
The front row matched the sophistication of the collection, with Viola Davis, Cynthia Erivo, Elizabeth Debicki and other stars attending.
The takeaway? Ralph Lauren proved yet again that longevity doesn't require abandoning your identity. Sometimes the smartest form of reinvention is taking the pieces people already recognise and making them feel desirable all over again.
Coach celebrated 85 years — but refused to live in the past
One of the strongest stories of the week belongs to Coach, which is celebrating its extraordinary 85th anniversary.
Rather than creating a straightforward retrospective, creative director Stuart Vevers looked at memory, nostalgia and the beauty of clothes that feel genuinely lived in. The Spring 2027 collection featured relaxed, sometimes drooping tailoring, casual trenches, exposed midriffs and youthful styling that appeared deliberately imperfect rather than excessively polished.
Then came the finale.
A youth orchestra from the Bronx was revealed, voguing dancers took over the runway and confetti exploded across the venue as "Love Is the Message" played. It transformed an anniversary collection into something emotional, celebratory and unmistakably New York.
The front row was similarly youthful, with Elle Fanning, Storm Reid, Troye Sivan and others joining the celebration.
Coach's message feels particularly relevant right now: luxury doesn't have to look untouched. Sometimes worn-in leather, oversized tailoring and clothes with personality can appear far cooler than something relentlessly pristine.
Diane von Furstenberg is officially entering a new era
One of this Fashion Week's most important fashion-business moments came from Diane von Furstenberg.
Henry Zankov made his much-anticipated debut at the house as artistic director, marking DVF's return to the official NYFW schedule after years away.
And subtlety was not the assignment.
Zankov embraced the exuberance associated with DVF through body-skimming ribbed knits, chiffon, vivid colours and fearless patterns, while still acknowledging the movement and practicality that helped make Diane von Furstenberg's famous wrap dress revolutionary.
It felt like an important reminder that colour can be luxurious, print can be sophisticated, and femininity does not have to disappear in order to look modern.
Tory Burch declared that opulent femininity is back
If ROMINAH had to choose one phrase from NYFW to remember, "opulent femininity" would be very high on the list.
That's how Tory Burch described part of the thinking behind her Spring 2027 collection.
Rather than pure fantasy, however, Burch combined glamour with functionality — mid-century references, embellishment, feminine silhouettes and dressed-up details contrasted against the practicality of American sportswear. The designer said she had been thinking about joy, optimism and the need to escape.
That contrast may become one of Spring 2027's defining formulas:
beautiful but useful, glamorous but relaxed, feminine without becoming precious.
Michael Kors went modern — with a touch of the 1960s
Michael Kors delivered another of the week's major shows, leaning into a modernist interpretation of American sportswear with a dose of 1960s Mod influence.
Rather than abandoning the polished sophistication for which his collections are known, Kors played with sharper contemporary ideas and flashes of colour against sophisticated neutral foundations.
It's an incredibly wearable direction.
Instead of dressing head-to-toe in an aggressive trend, the Kors formula suggests something more elegant: beautiful tailoring, refined neutrals, excellent proportions — and then one unexpected detail that changes everything.
That could be the styling trick women actually adopt from the runway.
Calvin Klein is making restraint feel desirable again
Interestingly, while other collections are embracing exuberance, Calvin Klein Collection under Veronica Leoni is offering the counterargument.
The Spring 2027 collection leaned toward clean minimalism: slim trousers, crisp blazers and controlled silhouettes that recalled the effortless New York simplicity long associated with the house.
And that's what makes this NYFW particularly interesting.
There isn't one uniform aesthetic dominating everything.
You can have opulent femininity at Tory Burch, nostalgia at Coach, colourful sensuality at DVF and razor-sharp restraint at Calvin Klein — and somehow all of it belongs to the same conversation.
Individuality may be the real trend.
Tommy Hilfiger returned to the prep that built an empire
At The Plaza, Tommy Hilfiger revisited the preppy vocabulary closely linked with his brand, refreshing classics including rugby shirts and archival motifs rather than discarding them.
It's part of a wider pattern emerging across NYFW.
Designers with enormous archives are no longer treating heritage as a museum piece. They're pulling it apart, relaxing it and offering it to a generation that wasn't around when many of those signatures first became famous.
Conner Ives came home
Another major story is Conner Ives, the American designer who became a fashion-world favourite while building his career in London.
This season marks his first NYFW show after becoming established on the London schedule — a genuine homecoming for the native New Yorker.
His arrival reflects something exciting about this edition of NYFW: famous institutions are sharing the calendar with a growing generation of designers capable of redefining what American fashion means.
The streets may be just as influential as the runways
Outside the venues, Fashion Week attendees are already creating another set of trends.
Vogue's early street-style coverage reports more colour, more experimentation, coats despite New York's muggy weather and the continuing popularity of scarf dressing.
Bold prints and playful pattern combinations are appearing too.
This is worth watching because Fashion Week street style often reveals how runway ideas might actually be translated into everyday wardrobes.
The formula emerging in New York is less about matching everything perfectly and more about creating tension: a polished coat with something unexpected underneath, a silk scarf worn unconventionally, vintage-inspired pieces mixed with new accessories, or serious tailoring interrupted by playful footwear.
And the shoes are already having their own Fashion Week
Footwear deserves its own headline.
Classic pumps are receiving renewed celebrity attention, while sculptural heels are having a moment around the shows. Floral and garden-inspired footwear is also continuing into Spring 2027, appearing around collections such as Proenza Schouler and TWP.
So despite years of chunky shoes, extreme platforms and trainers dominating fashion conversations, don't be surprised if the elegant pump starts looking extremely fresh again.
Celebrity style has become a second runway
NYFW's front rows are almost as closely watched as the collections themselves.
So far, the city has welcomed names including Dua Lipa, Anne Hathaway, Viola Davis, Cynthia Erivo, Elle Fanning, Storm Reid, Troye Sivan and Lisa, among a much larger celebrity crowd.
The celebrities aren't simply providing publicity anymore. Their arrival outfits, front-row looks, shoes, handbags and after-party wardrobes now create thousands of social posts almost instantly.
And the parties have become major events themselves. This year's celebrations have included everything from intimate designer dinners to glamorous hotel events, performances and highly styled brand experiences — reinforcing the idea that modern Fashion Week extends far beyond the runway.
The trends ROMINAH is watching
If the first half of NYFW is any indication, Spring/Summer 2027 will not be about dressing quietly just because someone told us expensive clothes should whisper.
Expect romantic femininity mixed with practical sportswear; looser and deliberately imperfect tailoring; strong colour alongside luxurious neutrals; heritage pieces reinterpreted rather than simply reproduced; scarves used as major styling tools; florals moving beyond predictable dresses into shoes and unexpected details; classic pumps returning beside sculptural heels; sheer fabrics, draping and body-conscious silhouettes; and above all, wardrobes that feel personal rather than algorithmically perfect.
And New York isn't finished yet
Some of the most anticipated moments are still unfolding.
Khaite is celebrating its 10th anniversary, Carolina Herrera is marking 45 years, Sabyasachi is making an important New York return after nearly two decades away, while Thom Browne is scheduled to bring the official week to a close on September 15.
So the final verdict on New York Fashion Week 2026 hasn't been written.
But three days in, one thing feels clear.
Fashion has remembered how to have fun.
It is becoming romantic again. Colourful again. Slightly imperfect again. Clothes are being allowed to look worn, layered, sensual, eccentric and alive.
And perhaps that is the biggest luxury trend of Spring 2027:
not looking like everybody else.
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Image Disclaimer: This image is AI-generated and is used for editorial and illustrative purposes only. It is inspired by the glamour and atmosphere of New York Fashion Week and does not depict an actual runway show, designer collection, celebrity, model, venue or specific event from NYFW 2026.
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